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The Search For The Perfect Rolex Datejust
Fredmans watch expert Adrian meets the watch photographer Fabian to try to find him the perfect Rolex Datejust watch. To make it even more interesting, we also brought out an odd duck, but more on that later! We will look at five models with interesting and different histories in the large world of Datejust models.
All models are 36 mm in size except for the 34 mm Oyster Perpetual Date, which of course isn't a Datejust, but it has the looks, and is similar enough, and can be had for a much cheaper price than an original Rolex Datejust. The 36 mm Rolex Datejust is a great model for most men and women who have a wrist size of up to around 17 cm. For 18–19 cm and up, we recommend a larger watch, but of course, it's all subjective to what you prefer!
Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph 16264
We will begin with the Turn-O-Graph in 36 mm. It has a gorgeous sunray champagne dial and a unique bezel that you may not have seen before on a Rolex Datejust.
In the 1950s, Rolex wanted to do an experiment and offered a ‘regular’ watch with a rotating bezel that was previously only featured on dive watches. The bezel is bidirectional, and like a dive bezel, it can measure elapsed time. From the 1990s and forward, the Turn-O-Graph had a regular fluted bezel with markings, and in 2011, the model was discontinued.

The Rolex Turn-o-Graph is a different kind of watch that almost doesn't look like a Datejust. Most available pre-owned Turn-O-Graph models have a black, gray, or white dial, but this example with a champagne dial is very unusual!
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date 15053
This Rolex Oyster Date in 34 mm is a special model, even if it's not a Datejust model. We can't deny that on the wrist, it looks and almost feels like a Datejust. In some sense, it's a simpler Datejust. This example comes with an oyster bracelet, which most Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date models comes with, but a few have jubilee bracelets. For the case materials, some comes in two-tone, like this example and in gold, but most have a steel bracelet with a white gold bezel. Compared to the Datejust it's a bit more low-key, not only because of the smaller case but also for the special bezel, which is called ‘engine-turned. It features small lines on the bezel that align with the minute marks on the watch.
The glass sticks out a bit from the case, as with many other vintage watches with hesalite glass. We think it's charming and suits this model well. Even though it can get scratches, you can always use products such as Polywatch to make the scratches go away.

Rolex Datejust 16234
All is well with an Oyster Perpetual Date in 34 mm, but a 36 mm Datejust is for many of us the perfect size! This example has a black dial with diamonds, which could work as a unisex watch, although in Scandinavia and in Sweden it’s probably going to end up on a woman's wrist. The case polishing on the upper side is brushed, as on many other vintage Datejust models, so it's a bit more discreet than modern Datejust watches. It has a flat sapphire glass that protects against scratches and has an 18k white gold bezel.

Two-Tone Rolex Datejust 16233
This two-tone Rolex Datejust also has a black dial and comes with a gold bezel and a two-tone bracelet. It's of the most classic and quintessential Datejust models on the market. It's iconic, although it's a bit less subtle and less versatile than an in steel or steel/white gold Datejust, and is therefore a bit more dressed up. We can't deny that this is an iconic watch for all the right reasons!

Rolex Datejust 36mm 126200
This is the perfect everyday watch for most. Compared to the other models on this list, the case is polished, so it will look more modern and, for some, more dressed up. When holding it in your hands, it will also feel heavier and more robust, which goes hand in hand with its modern case and solid links.

So it's the perfect watch? Yes and no.. As with most perfect, mainstream objects, it can be a bit boring and underwhelming. It's one of, if not the most popular, Rolex watch on the market. It’s also the watch on this list that has the most competition from other models and watch brands, due to the steel case and black dial.
Summary
To try to summarize our search for the perfect Rolex Datejust watch, our favourite models are the Rolex Turn-O-Graph for its unique properties and the modern Rolex Datejust ref. 126200. Although it has a lot of competition, it's as close to perfect as any watch can be.
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