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Bremont - A British Watch Brand That Really Delivers
Bremont is an interesting and relatively new watch brand that began its journey by creating pilot watches but today offers men's and women's watches in several different watch categories, where we here will take a closer look at some of them.
The History Of Bremont
The company Bremont was founded in 2002 in Great Britain and today has its office in Henley, Thames. The company began its journey in the world of watches by creating pilot watches that are a large part of the company's DNA, even today, but they also create everything from diving watches and sports watches to dress watches.
All models from Bremont's core collections are chronometer-certified and are also hand-built in the UK. This is something that strongly contributes to the fact that the quality of a Bremont is higher than many other brands and certainly something that is felt when you hold them. The latter is something that made us open our eyes to this unique British watch brand.
The company's history is an inspiring read. The company and the driving force behind it came about after a loss for the two brothers Nick and Giles English. They succinctly told each other that life is too short not to pursue your dreams. They already had a lot of experience in aircraft and engineering and took it forward to what became the Bremont company.
The History Of British Watchmaking
British watchmaking dates back to the 1500s. We find a man by the name of Robert Hooke who is said to have created the first balance spring in the 17th century, which was later used by another innovator Thomas Thompson, who came to create many innovations of his own and is the most famous British watchmaker. We also find Peter Debaufre, who at the beginning of the 18th century patented the use of jewels in movements. The famous watchmaker John Harrisson then created the first marine chronometer in the same century, which was an important innovation for voyages on the seas.
The Collections
Bremont has a variety of collections and all watches in Bremont's so-called 'core collections' are chronometer certified, and some of the watches are also used by army personnel around the world. Regardless of the collection, a pilot- or military theme can often be seen in the design. Bremont is best known for its pilot's watches, which are a large part of the company's identity, among other things it can be seen on the company's logo, which is of a propeller.
Most of Bremont's watches have their unique Trip Tic case construction. It was created to be unique and unique it is! It´s a three-part construction consisting of the bezel, a middle part including the lugs, and then the back of the case. It's a design where the lugs stand out nicely when you look at the watch from the side.
Here we have selected some models from Bremont's largest collections. Bremont themselves separate their collections into the categories; Sea, Land, and Air. We've packaged it here into diving watches and pilot watches with some beautiful examples.
The Diving Watch Bremont Supermarine S500
We have here two Bremont Supermarine S500s which are the predecessors of the current versions S501 and S502. Design-wise there are a few differences between them but the S501 has a slightly different design on the dial and a transparent back and the S502 has a GMT function included. Some advantages of these two Bremont S500s we have here in front of us are the dials.
The size is 43 mm with a lug-to-lug measurement of just over 50 mm and a thickness of 16.5 mm. So in terms of these dimensions, it's not a small watch, but despite that, it sits well on the wrist. It's quite incredible how they managed to do it. The way it feels on the wrist can be most closely compared to a 44 mm Seiko Marinemaster and, if we may dare to say it, it fits somewhat better, even on smaller wrists. It hugs the wrist and, together with the rubber strap, sits firmly on the wrist, in a positive way. Of course, it will fit better on normal to slightly larger wrists, but their 'Trip Tic' case manages to create a comfortable watch even on smaller wrists. It is possibly a little front-heavy on the rubber band, but it is hard to avoid in this size.
The black dial has a color that almost goes towards brown with the vintage-inspired text and the color of the super luminova. It almost look like a vintage dial, at least it gives a sense of vintage and that makes it a bit more discreet than the blue dial which shines and is more visible, especially in the right light. It´s a really lovely blue color which, together with the cathedral hands, creates an incredibly unique layout. A small but important detail that not all watch brands think about is the back of the date window, which here is dark and not white. The rubber strap feels sturdy and nice and has a clasp that has a nice combination of polishing and brushing.
One of the details that caught our attention was the extremely unique crown guard, which is not only located at the two o´clock position but also has a design that we have never seen before. It´s somewhat similar to the crown guard that we find on the Oris Aquis diver's watch, but here it appears to be cut in half and significantly larger. It's a nice and unique detail!
There is also a smaller version of this model as version S300, or rather S301 and S302 which comes with 300 meters of water resistance (instead of 500 which we have in these) and which has a smaller case in all dimensions; diameter, thickness and the lug to lug measurement. However, it does not come with this cool crown guard.
The movement is a BE-36AE which is ETA based has 25 jewels, a power reserve of 38 hours, and is also chronometer certified. The water resistance is a full 500 meters, so we don't expect anything less in this size of case size and this price range of around SEK 50,000.
The Diving And Military Watch Bremont Argonaut RS
The Bremont Argonaut RS is a model that is both a diving watch and can also be seen as a military watch, which is however a broad expression. A military-inspired diver's watch is perhaps the closest term we can find that fits the Bremont Argonaut RS. However, it´s a really lovely watch we have in front of us. It´s characterized by the inner rotating bezel, a feature that only a few dive watches on the market have and it is nowhere near as common as the usual outer bezel we are used to on dive watches. The big difference is that you get an extra crown that controls the bezel, instead of you doing it directly on the bezel. For those of us who only use diving watches on land, it can be seen as a slightly more sophisticated way of handling the bezel, and certainly a matter of taste as to what you prefer.
The case measures 42 mm and the watch sits like a normal 42 mm watch but not like a 42 mm diver's watch as this dial feels larger than a normal 42 mm diver's watch with an outer bezel and lug-to-lug measurement of approx. 49 mm, and a bandwidth of 20 mm. This one belongs on normal to slightly larger wrists. Like a Longines Legend Diver that also has a similar bezel, this is a watch that could easily be mistaken for an everyday watch or a regular sports watch as it lacks that distinctive diving watch look.
The water resistance is 300 meters and of course, it comes with super luminova on the index markers and a screw-down crown that we expect in a real diving watch, which this one is. The movement is a BE-92AV that has a 42-hour power reserve and it is also chronometer certified.
Although in terms of price, this is one of the most affordable Bremont models for men, it is one of the models that maintains an incredibly high quality. If you look at the price, which is around SEK 40,000, where we approach Tudor's various diving models, they can certainly be compared on many levels.
The Pilot Watch ALT1-ZT / 51
This is a Bremont pilot's watch that is a special model, and there is a lot to talk about. Like many pilot watches, it has a complex dial with many hands and index markings. The dial is black and has a matte finish and almost doesn't look black due to the vintage-inspired yellow color of the hands and index markers. We find a few red details present on the second hand located in one of the smaller dials and on the chronograph's second hand and the GMT hand. A nice detail as mentioned earlier is the dark background of the date window which gives a discreet expression.
The size of the case is 43 mm with a lug-to-lug measurement of 50 mm, a thickness of 16.4 mm, and a 22 mm band width. A slightly larger wrist is needed here, even though the model has a trip-tic case design that makes it sit well on the wrist. It's a matter of taste, but since the many design elements on the dial give a more classic look, we might want to avoid the watch looking too big on the wrist.
In addition to this model having a classic chronograph function controlled by the two traditional buttons, here we also have two nice silver-colored chronograph dials that stand out and make it easier to see. It also has a GMT function controlled through the regular crown but we also get an extra crown at the 4 o´clock position which allows you to rotate a GMT display and which allows a third-time zone to be measured. Functionally and design-wise, Bremont has created a really interesting and attractive model here.
We get 100 meters of water resistance which is welcome in a chronograph which is more than unusual. Most chronographs on the market have 30 or 50 meters of water resistance. Something we may be missing a little is a screw-down crown, which Bremont has on most of their different models. It's not necessary but it would be a welcomed addition.
The movement is a BE-54AE which is a modified ETA 7750 that is chronometer certified and has a 42-hour power reserve which can be seen on the back of the watch. The buckle that comes with it is of the butterfly variant that fits the model perfectly. The price is SEK 70,800 so it´s not a cheap watch, but at the same time it is a model that has a lot in terms of functions from a watch brand like Bremont that creates extremely high-quality watches and shows here.
The Future Of Bremont
Bremont is, to say the least, an interesting watch brand that has succeeded in creating its own design language that has most of what we could wish for in a quality watch. Often in relatively newer watch brands, you can see that they have been inspired by, for example, a Cartier Tank or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, but it is difficult to see in Bremont's models. Although the watches may not be super unique, they have their style, and their design language, and it is noticeable that there is an industrial thought and a sense of engineering behind the design.
We can imagine that it is with great pride as watch enthusiasts in the UK to have a watch company in this price range that reaches out to the whole world. At least they have managed to reach out to us.
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